Climbers the world over know that Chamonix is an epicenter for alpinism. The array and quality of routes is unsurpassed. But another thing that adds to this valley's charms is the wide range of options to enjoy on rest and rain days. That is coupled with the incredible array of options available for non-climbing family and friends to enjoy as well. Basically, regardless of your level of mobility and athleticism, as long as you have a bone in your body that enjoys the outdoor world, you'll find engaging things around every twist in the trail. Below, I've laid out some of my favorites for people with a variety of outdoor interests and physical abilities.
All Lifts & All Trails
The primary modes for mountain access out of Chamonix are the: Aiguille du Midi Gondola, Brevent/Planpraz Lifts, Flegere/L'Index Lifts, and Montenvers Train. All of these will take you to a nearly endless network of trails of a variety of levels of challenge. See the Adventure Spirit blog/page “Travel Tips for Maximizing Your Time in Chamonix” to see a few of my favorites. Phone apps like AllTrails can also provide a good variety of ideas. And if the folks you're traveling with aren't interested in or able to hike, they can still enjoy taking a lift up and having lunch or a drink while taking in exceptional alpine views at the cafe/restaurants that are at the top of all of these places.
Aiguille du Midi & The Panoramic Gondola
During our climbing time, it's likely we'll go up to the top of the Midi lift. But, we'll be pretty focused on climbing. There's a lot more to take in up there though—exhibits about the history of mountain sports in Chamonix and about high-altitude physiology, truly jaw-dropping views in every direction, and a restaurant and cafe. If you're looking to stay acclimatized on a rest day or you're traveling with non-climbing friends or family, a trip up the Midi is a must. And, weather permitting, you should add in another “must”--the Panoramic Gondola. This gondola takes you on a 2+ mile ride across the gaping glaciers of the Vallee Blanche and drops you off in Italy. Take a coffee and a pastry at the Torino Hut and then head back to France. Or, you could make a whole day of it by taking the Skyway Monte Bianco down to the Italian valley and walking or taking public transport a few miles into Courmayeur's city center. Though the Panoramic Gondola isn't included in the Mont Blanc Ultimate Pass, a trip on it is well-worth the added cost.
Montenvers Train
The Montenvers Train is our ticket to accessing amazing terrain like Envers des Aiguilles and routes in the Talefre Glacier Basin, but it's also an incredible experience in its own right. This train leaves from the center of town (right behind the actual Chamonix Centre Train Station—don't confuse the two). It's really actually a cog-railway, as the path it takes is far steeper than anything you've ever experienced on a train. Try to get a seat on the north side/Aiguilles Rouges side of the train for the best views (climbers' left side as you the direction the train will travel). Winding up through alpine forests, with sweeping views of the Aiguilles Rouges, the journey ends at the historic Refuge du Montenvers. Built in the late 1800s, it is difficult to imagine that at that time the glacier was only a short walk down the hill from this stately hotel. This building and the historic train station are worth poking around.
From the train station, a short gondola ride takes you down to the glacier, where there are ice caves carved into the glacier, allowing visitors to experience the inside of a glacier. Though its exceedingly touristy—get there early, if possible—it really is a unique experience for anyone that has never had the good-fortune to get lowered into a crevasse...or the bad luck to fall into one!
Geneva Explorations
There are several affordable shuttles that leave throughout the day from Cham Sud, heading to Geneva. The ride is only 1h15m, allowing you to easily visit this historic Swiss financial center for a day. See the blog/page post “Travel Tips for Maximizing Your Time in Chamonix” for information about these shuttles.
Once in Geneva, you can take a pleasant stroll around the Lac Leman (the lake), taking in the famous Jet d'Eau de Geneve (a gigantic water geyser) and the historic old town area. As you poke around, you'll see the broad array of financial institutions and international organizations that make their homes in the city. Boat tours are also a nice way to get a view on the city. Walking around the town, you'll see there is no shortage of shops peddling the watches, chocolates, knives, and other accoutrements that Switzerland is famous for, along with all of the high-end shops you'd anticipate in one of the world's major financial centers.
Chamonix Shopping
One thing I appreciate about Chamonix is that it has stayed closer to its mountain roots than some other European mountain towns that have trended more towards being places to shop and show off. That said, Chamonix does have its share of shopping options. Of course, there are beaucoup outdoor stores. For outdoor-related deals, I suggest Decathlon and Technique Extreme. But, beyond the fleece and carabiners, you'll also find stores like Swarovski, Eric Bompard (famous for its cashmere), Arpin Boutique (famous for its Savoyarde wool), Lacoste, and Ralph Lauren. There are also many stores that sell high-quality local food, including Shouka for chocolates and coffee and Le Refuge Payot for a wide range of Savoyarde food.
Other Options
The original climbers in The Alps were the crystal hunters, who would dare their lives up in the high hills, filling their rucksacks with an area of alluring gems and jewels. You can view some of that treasure trove at the Musee des Cristaux (Crystal Museum) in the center of Chamonix. Though it may not quite rival the Louvre in terms of size and scale, it does get good reviews from most people who visit.
L'Arve River cuts a swift and straight path through the middle of Chamonix. Fueled by glacial run-off, the river gets quite raucous in the middle of summer and various companies run a brisk business in rafting down through town. Because this section of the river is so straight, it doesn't necessarily offer the most interesting of raft experiences, but it sure is refreshing. And you can inquire with them about further-flung options. In a similarly cool and refreshing vein, there are a variety of canyoning/canyoneering options in the valley.
Another great option for keeping it cool is the Chamonix Sports Centre (Centre Sportif Richard Bozon). With an ice skating rink, pool, and hydroslide, alongside other standard gym fare, this facility is a hit for people of all ages.
On the note of gyms, there are two climbing gym options near Chamonix. The closest is Mont-Blanc Escalade in Les Houches, 10-minutes southwest of Chamonix and accessible via public transportation. This place is pretty old-school—none of the routes are set-up for top roping, and the bouldering area is quite limited. A newer and bigger option is Topo, but it's located in St. Gervais-les-Bains and will require a car to get to.
A growing network of via ferrata dot the Chamonix hills. Perhaps the most popular is the “Via des Evettes”, which can be accessed from the top of the Flegere lift (don't go all the way up to l'Index). Follow green signs to the base of the cables. The combination of cables and steel rung hand and foot holds makes for an airy-but-accessible mountain climbing experience for a variety of types of people. Do keep in mind that if you choose to via ferrata, you should get the appropriate via ferrata “shock absorber” tethers. These can be rented at InterSport or Snell Sports for around Euro 10 a day. Bring some lightweight, durable belay gloves as well, for comfort on the cables.
As you look up to admire the peaks on most afternoons, you'll also notice a plethora of bright canopies drifting around the sky. Paragliding (called “parapenting” in French) is quite the thing in Chamonix and there are a variety of agencies around town that offer tandem paragliding experiences.
Emosson Dam is located on the French-Swiss border near Vallorcine. This massive concrete wall holds back a stunning emerald-green reservoir of glacial water surrounded by craggy peaks. It also offers the most open, sweeping views of the Mont Blanc Massif, particularly the Le Tour and Argentiere areas. You can drive up to the dam via car, but if you're looking to make more of day out of things and add to the adventure, you can take the train to Vallorcine, walk to Chatelard/Finhaut and take a funky, old funicular up to the dam area. Once up at the dam, you'll find a bar and restaurant, along with a pretty exhilarity zipline option that races across the dam from Switzerland to France.
And, for those days when you're too tired to even raft, canyoneer, or paraglide, a massage is the natural solution. There are a variety of massage options around town. I've found Massage-Chamonix to be a good value for a firm and reinvigorating massage.
Transportation Options
A train offers convenient linkages from Servoz, southwest in the valley from Chamonix, to Vallorcine, northeast in the valley from Chamonix, with service at most stops about twice an hour during high seasons. If you're looking to explore further into Switzerland, going to places like Zermatt, Saas Fee, and beyond, you can transfer from the SNCF French train in Vallorcine and continue on with the SBB Swiss train service. And there is regular bus service from Argentiere (northeast of Chamonix) to Les Houches (southwest of Chamonix). When checking into your lodging, be sure to ask your host for the card allowing for free travel.
If you're looking to explore further-flung destinations, a car will be handy. Red Panda Car Rental offers a convenient option—though you will pay for that convenience. Another quirky European car rental option is provided through supermarkets like Carrefour and SuperU. At many of their larger locations, they offer very economical car rental options. However, in Chamonix it's a bit of a “Catch-22” in that the nearest options are down near Sallanches, beyond easy train or bus travel, so it's almost like you need a car to get to your rental car.
Summary
Architectural and engineering wonders like the Midi or Emosson Dam, an endless array of fabulous hiking trails, easy access to Geneva, ziplines, rafting, paragliding, and on-and-on. You don't have to be a climber to enjoy Chamonix and for climbers in need of rest or weathering out a rain day, the options abound in and around the Chamonix valley. All of this allows for a diverse and interesting vacation time for climbers and for climbers traveling with friends and family looking for other options.