Peruvian Alpine Climbing Adventures
Acclimatization Options
Acclimatization is the key to an enjoyable, safe, and successful Peruvian peaks experience. All of the peaks we'll be climbing are over 17,000'. Just taking the bus or shuttle from Lima to Huaraz will have you traveling over 14,000' mountain passes, and the mountain town of Huaraz is perched at 10,000', allowing for acclimatization while simply enjoying the views. And once you arrive, you'll want to set your sites higher—and there are a variety of appealing options nearby to get you there.
You'll want to include a minimum of two days of acclimatization activities while based in/around Huaraz. Some climbers choose to build these acclimatization options in their Adventure Spirit climbing plan: We cover the logistics, pick interesting objectives, monitor your acclimatization via various standardized measures, and discuss in detail with you how to best recognize and treat any issues. Others climbers choose to acclimatize on their own, prior to joining Adventure Spirit. Regardless of which path you choose, a few of our favorite options appear below.
Some very important notes:
Times are approximate—take the time you need and turn around if you're running out of it. One factor inhibiting acclimatization is excessive strain on the body.
Times are for the actual hike only. Travel times vary according to how you choose to get to the trailhead (“combi” van, taxi, shuttle).
Ultimately, the more time you spend at the given altitude the better. So, plan to hike up, have a picnic, take a nap, etc—the beauty about acclimatization is that sloth becomes justifiable!
Thoroughly familiarize yourself with the symptoms of altitude sickness and at the first sign of any ill effects, descend immediately.
Laguna Wilcacocha (3780m, 12,095')
Hike Time: Approx. 2hrs up/1h15m down.
This is a great half-day hike only about 20 min out of town and easily accessible via public transport. To get to the transport, follow “Avenida Sal y Rosas” (near Plaza des Armas) down to where it hits the river and the main highway through Huaraz (heading east). You should see a little parking lot here with “combi” vans. Vans for Wilcacocha leave on the street outside of this lot. The cost is about Soles$1.50 each way. Ask for Wilcacocha and they'll let you off where you'll see a bridge crossing the river—cross it. Go up a minute or two, paying attention for a trail on the left leaving the main road. Follow this trail up. Along the way, you'll see painted blue water faucet signs—pay attention to these for clues about where the trail goes. After 30-45 minutes you'll pass through a small village, then 10-20 minute later a school/playground area. Continue on up to the lake. Given so many spectacular lake in the Cordillera Blanca, this one is just average, but the view it affords of this great Andean range is inspiring.
Laguna Churup (4600m, 15,085')
Hike Time: Approx. 2-3hrs up, 1.5-2hrs down.
Either hire a private cab (approx. $USD30-40 roundtrip, the driver will wait) or take a village combi van up to the launch point of Pitec. If you go with the combi option, be sure that you get back to the trailhead before 4pm, as most combis leave in that time frame. Also, remember you'll need to get your Huascaran National Park pass beforehand (the Park office is on Avenida Sal y Rosas near Hotel Tumbi) for this and most of the other locations listed here (as well as our climbs). It's about a 45m drive to the trailhead. Follow the well-marked trail up along the left-hand side of the valley toward Churup lake and peak. After about an hour of hiking, there will be a high road and a low road. The low road is the one marked “Campemiento”--follow this one for a more interesting scramble to the lake that involves some fixed cables or if conditions are wet, frozen, or otherwise tricky, take the high road. After topping out on the fixed lines, you'll reach the brilliant blue Laguna Churup, beneath the towering Churup peak. If you're in for an added challenge, you can add another 30m of hiking along the left side of the valley to get up to Laguna Churupita—while not as spectactular as Laguna Churup, it's higher and quieter. Return back to the trailhead the way you came.
Laguna Llaca (4475m, 14,675')
Hike Time: Approx. 6-8hrs roundtrip
The best place to catch this trail is from the Lazy Dog Inn (see below). You can either take a taxi or a public combi van—if you take a taxi, the cost should be about USD$30-40 for having the driver wait for you. The trail meanders up towards the Lllaca valley, arriving at a refugio and the stunning cliffs that plunge into the lake. Leaves from the Lazy Dog Inn, above Huaraz, and goes up to a refugio and lake encircled by impressive peaks. Either return the way you came or you can find/arrange a taxi from the lake, which is accessible by vehicles. If you have questions when you arrive, the friendly staff at the Lazy Dog Inn can help you out.
Laguna Shallap (4250m, 13,950')
Hike Time: 7-8hrs roundtrip
Access the launch point village of Pitec as you would for Laguna Churup (see above). Instead of going immediately up and left to the Churup hike and valley, continue straight up the lush valley beyond to the right. If you've got the strength and time to make it to the lake, it's well-worth it and, even if not, the scenic, boulder-strewn valley is well worth the effort.
Laguna Ahuac (4560m, 14,955')
Hike Time: Approx. 3-4hrs up, 2-3hrs down
Leaves from near Wilcawain, a popular burial ruins destination near Huaraz. Either hire a taxi or take a combi van from Huaraz for approximately 30 minutes to the trailhead. The trail starts one switchback higher than Wilcawain. It begins by first going up a lovely grassy path, then becomes rockier and steeper, before arriving at a stunning mountain lake. To take a combi from Huaraz, follow “Avenida Lucas y Torres” north to where it meets the Rio Quilcay, a smaller river that runs through Huaraz, then go right for one block, upriver, and ask on that street for the “combi” van to Wilcawain. Get off at the Wilcawain ruins. The trail to Ahuac is just up the road from the ruins site—go up to a T-intersection and go left, then keep an eye out for a broad grassy, delightful trail. From here, just follow the flow of the trail as it gets steeper and more alpine, culminating in a rather Scottish-looking alpine lake with excellent views. Return the way you came and if you wait at the Wilcawain ruins a combi should be by at least every half-hour or so during the daytime.
Laguna Paron (4200m, 13,775')
Hike Time: Varies according to plan—see below
A variety of trails are possible on this vehicle-accessed lake. The approach to Laguna Paron takes you past “La Esfinge (The Sphinx)”, a spectacular expanse of rock that is a premier big wall rock destination for South American climbers. The trail culminates in the sapphire hues of Laguna Paron, underneath the southeast flank of Artesonraju. A useful tool for your planning is the trip write-up HERE. As an interesting side-note: This fellow's descent into dirtbag-dom began with a climb of the North Ridge of Baker with Adventure Spirit!
Nevado Mateo (4600m, 15,088')
Hike Time: Approx. 7-9hrs roundtrip
A hike of Nevado Mateo demands cramponing experience, comfort on steep snow slopes, and confidence in navigation in the event of inclement weather. Additionally, the drive typically takes about 3hrs, so you'll want to arrange with a taxi or shuttle to meet you at your lodging around 3am. A useful tool for your planning is the trip write-up found HERE.
Laguna 69 (4600', 15,088')
Hike Time: Approx. 6-8hrs roundtrip
Laguna 69 is a stunning glacial lake surrounded by waterfalls and peaks in Quebrada Llagunaco, making it perhaps the most popular one-day outing from Huaraz. But, be aware that the 3+hr drive makes for a long day. Also, if you'll be climbing Yanapaccha with us, you may want to choose other options, as Laguna 69 involves the same drive—and, you'll be staring down at Laguna 69 the whole time you're in Yanapaccha Base Camp! Every tour operator in Huaraz offers Laguna 69 hikes and the simplest and cheapest option will be to join one of these. Andean Kindgom is our preferred tour operator and Galaxia Expeditions is another operator with a good reputation. Useful tools for your planning are the trip write-ups found HERE and HERE.
Mountain Biking at Altitude (Variable Altitudes)
Hike Time: N/A
There are a variety of interesting mountain bike tours offered through agencies in Huaraz. And, even though its not hiking, anything you do at altitude helps. Andean Kindgom is our preferred tour operator and Galaxia Expeditions is another operator with a good reputation.
Rock Climbing at Hatun Machay (~4500m, 15,000')
Hike Time: N/A
High up in the plains of the Andes, about 1.5hrs from Huaraz, are the mystical tufa towers of Hatun Machay. The area is like a little fairyland, peppered with single-pitch climbing options with a variety of difficulty ratings...and when else do you get to sport climb at 15,000'? Camping is available there as well, making it an even better way to acclimatize if you've already been in Huaraz or at similar elevations for a few days. Andean Kingdom outfitters in Huaraz can arrange a taxi for you and provide you with general route beta. Unfortunately, Hatun Machay has been the scene of some controversy in the last couple of years. It seems to have settled out, but before making your plans, check out this link, and check in at the “Casa des Guias” (in Parque Ginebra) and/or Andean Kingdom before launching out, to get the most recent news.
Sleep High in the Huaraz Hills (~3800m, 12,500')
Hike Time: N/A
There are a variety of inns located in the high hills outside Huaraz. Not the best option if you've just arrived in Huaraz, but an excellent way to chill out on high after being there for a couple of days. One place that gets highly recommended is the Lazy Dog Inn. The Lazy Dog Inn offers easy access to Lagunas Llaca, Shallap, and Churup (see above). Plus, there are some interesting bouldering and rock climbing options in the vicinity of the Inn and on the way up to Laguna Llaca.
Machu Picchu Trekking (~2000-4500m, 7,000'-15,000')
Hike Time: 4-5 days
Yet another great thing about a climbing trip to Peru is that it can be combined with an interesting, active vacation for your non-climbing family/partner/friends. Archeological and cultural sites abound, the most famous being the “lost” Incan city of Machu Picchu. While hordes of people do the “Inca Trail” approach to Machu Picchu, the Salkantay Trek offers a quieter, more interesting, and higher altitude approach. A little pre-acclimatization is best, as the first two days involve sleeping around 12,000' and traveling over passes in excess of 15,000'. After that, elevations gradually subside. One tour operator for the Salkantay Trek that our climbers have used and recommended is Alpaca Expeditions.
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