Artesonraju/Alpamayo

Overview

One was voted "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World", the other was the inspiration for the Paramount Pictures logo.  Both are in the same valley.  And though each climb is distinctly different the itinerary is similar.  Jagged peaks with sweeping snow and ice faces soar out of verdant valleys. High-altitude, expeditionary-style adventures are assisted with burro and porter support, kitted out with camp cooks, all providing for comfortable base camp living that gets you primed for peak experiences. Unbelievably blue Andean day times are contrasted with nighttime views straight into the heart of the Milky Way. And all of this takes place within a cultural tapestry made rich with the influences of indigenous, Spanish, and East Asian culture.

The entry into Peru is the coastal town of Lima.  The launch point for Artesonraju and Alpamayo is the city of Huaraz, a scenic 8-hour ride from Lima. Huaraz is a mountain town perched at almost 10,000', that blends climbing culture with Peruvian earthiness and an ability to access a variety of interesting acclimatization hikes.  Attention to acclimatization is essential for a safe, enjoyable, and successful time—and please note that the itinerary below assumes several days of pre-acclimatization or the addition of a climb like Yanapaccha in advance of these climbs.  Throughout the acclimatization portion of our trip, we'll carefully monitor physiology via a pulse oximeter, respiration, and the “Lake Louise Scale” (a measurement of acclimatization).  Once acclimatized, we launch...

While many Artesonraju and Alpamayo climbs enter and exit through the south end of the valley, we find it much more aesthetic, interesting, and better for acclimatization to do it in a loop starting from the north.  Starting from the village of Vaqueria, our porter-assisted approach begins gradually snaking its way through picturesque, pastoral lands.  Over the course of two days, we finally crest a lung-stretching notch in the ridgeline before our descent to the Artesonraju or Alpamayo basecamps.  Alpamayo gets more attention than Artesonraju and, consequently, both the base and high camps are busy with climbers from all over the globe.  Artesonraju's camps are quiet by comparison.  Whichever base and high camp we arrive at, the next steps involve being ready for some steep, intense climbing!   How we organize the overall flow of your Artesonraju or Alpamayo climb is a function of your timeline and technical and altitude aspirations.  A sample itinerary for Artesonraju or Alpamayo can look something like below:

Sample Itinerary

Attention to acclimatization is essential for a safe, enjoyable, and successful time.  Please note that the itinerary below assumes several days of pre-acclimatization and/or the addition of a climb like Yanapaccha in advance of these climbs.

Day 1

Night flight to Lima allows for an early AM departure to Huaraz aboard a luxury bus with fully reclining sleeper seats. Travel by taxi from airport to the bus station. You will be provided with the information you need for a smooth transfer. (we highly recommend the bus as an enjoyable, comfortable, cultural option, but a private shuttle can be arranged.) This trip begins the acclimatization process, as you travel up over mountain passes above 15,000'. Enjoy the wildly scenic 8-hour drive that takes you from barren deserts to vistas of jagged mountains soaring above pastoral farming lands. You'll arrive in Huaraz (10K) in early evening, with enough time for a walk around town to begin the acclimatization process and to enjoy the vibrancy of this authentic mountain town.

Day 2

Sleep in a bit and then we'll drive up the mountain roads just outside of town to the Laguna Churup trailhead, arriving in the thin air above 12K. From there, we'll head up the path towards Laguna Churup, encountering some steep scrambling and fixed lines before reaching a sparkling sapphire lake at 14.5K feet beneath the towering face of Churup peak. Along the way we'll discuss acclimatization, altitude symptoms, treatments, and responses, and our overall risk management strategies for the upcoming climbing adventures. 

Day 3

After breakfast in Huaraz, our shuttle will take us to the Laguna Ahuac trailhead, right near the ancient Wilcawain historical site, about 30 minutes outside of Huaraz. The trail goes up a lovely grassy path, then becomes rockier and steeper, before arriving at a stunning, serene, rather Scottish-looking mountain lake, with excellent views in all directions. We'll arrive around lunchtime, allowing for a bit of time to stay at altitude and maximize the acclimatization process. Then we'll head back to the trailhead, returning to Huaraz with time to shower up and enjoy dinner at one of the many great restaurants in the cute Parc Ginebre neighborhood.

Day 4

No sleeping in today! An early AM departure will take us to the flanks of Huarapasca (17,775'/5415m). From there it's up to 5 pitches of steep snow and ice to the top—a good opportunity to begin getting our alpine legs under us. We'll return that afternoon to Huaraz and put our bags together for the Yanapaccha departure the following morning.

Day 5

Today we depart for the small village of Vaqueria, the trailhead for the Artesonraju/Alpamayo approach, a sinuous drive that take us up over 15,000' before landing back down.  Many other Artesonraju and Alpamayo climbs both approach and descend from the south (Cashapampa); we'll be starting in the north and exiting in south.  This allows us to better acclimatize on the hike in, while also allowing us to see a wider range of amazing alpine scenery. From the trailhead, we pass through small villages, heading out into stunning pastoral landscapes studded with shark-toothed peaks.  After about three hours of hiking, we arrive at first camp, alongside a gurgling stream in Pariapampa.  

Day 6

Rising when the frost is still on the tents, we'll pack and head up to the austere, rocky pass that separates us from the Artesonraju and Alpamayo basecamps.  Heading up over this 15,000' pass is a lung buster, but we are greeted by stunning views of our climbing objectives on the other side.  The Artesonraju camp is in Tuallipampa, at the bottom of the valley, while the Alpamayo camp is tucked into a side valley another hour further.  The Artesonraju basecamp is a relatively spacious and quiet one, with a variety of trekking groups that pass through.  Alpamayo basecamp is a more bustling affair, with climbers from around the globe gathering to give the mountain's mighty flanks a shot.  

Day 7

High camp is our objective today.  For Artesonraju, this involves a three-hour hike through rocky terrain to set up camp around 16,500'.  Time and energy permitting, we may do some route exploration and acclimatization higher up.  For Alpamayo, the approach typically involves a bit of 70-degree ice climbing up to high camp.  We'll be in bed early, getting ready for tomorrow's alpine start.

Day 8

Starting out by headlamp under the star-studded Andean sky, both climbs begin with a gradual approach.  That approach quickly becomes steeper and soon we are pitching out steep snow and ice climbing.  Self-care, self-awareness, and efficiency are key for the remainder of our push, working together to make smart decisions and maximize our opportunity to summit.  Whether standing at the top of Artesonraju or Alpamayo, the feeling is vertiginous as we gaze down the steep, snowy flanks to the lush green Peruvian valleys far, far below.  And—of course—there is still a lot of work ahead of us, as we keep focused on the primary goal of a safe descent.  Round-trip, the climb is typically about 18 hours.  We'll arrive back at high-camp, celebrate with some dinner, and get to bed!

Day 9

After some lovely sleep-in time, we'll wake and break camp, and head down to the thick, rich air provided at base camp.  Some more sleep may be on the schedule--and definitely more relaxation.

Day 10

This is a weather/flex day, in the event that our original summit day isn't optimal.  

Day 11

Today we'll wake up and head down the valley, completing the circuit-loop approach to Artesonraju and Alpamayo in the town of Cashapampa.  The descent is almost completely downhill and takes us across vast alpine valleys, through forested groves by a gushing river, and ultimately back into civilization.  From there, it's back to Huaraz for showers, dinners, and some celebratory times.  

Day 12

Peru offers so many more wonderful options to explore, whether in jungle groves or Incan ruins. But if you decide it's time to head back to Lima and back home, you'll probably want to plan for an AM departure from Huaraz that will bring you to the airport in time for a late PM departure from Lima.

Day 13

Your departure from Lima the prior night will bring you back stateside by the next afternoon. Enjoy the travel time to reflect on the experiences and the learning and meaning that you can glean from them. Also, though you'll have lots of homecoming things to tend to, be sure to save some time upon arrival for a quick jog around the neighborhood—you'll be amazed at how your sea-level lungs perform after all of our time up on high in Peru. You'll also be amazed by everything you've accomplished along the way.

Click here to return to the Peru Alpine Climbing Adventures Itinerary Options page.

Click here for a more detailed look at the Peruvian Alpine Climbing Acclimatization Hike Options.

Click here for a look at the Peruvian Alpine Climbing Clothing & Equipment List.

After reviewing the sample destinations and itineraries, connect with us to discuss your particular goals, timeline, and budget, and we'll work together to develop the optimal Peru plan.