Yanapaccha & Ishinca Valley

(Yana, Tocllaraju, Ishinca, & Urus Este)

Overview

Peru's Cordillera Blanca is an unparalled place for culture and climbing.  Combining Yanapaccha with the peaks of the Ishinca Valley (Tocllaraju, Ishinca, & Urus Este) allows you to experience two distinctive climbing areas. Jagged peaks with sweeping snow and ice faces soar out of verdant valleys. High-altitude, expeditionary-style adventures are assisted with burro and porter support, kitted out with camp cooks, all providing for comfortable base camp living that gets you primed for peak experiences. Unbelievably blue Andean day times are contrasted with nighttime views straight into the heart of the Milky Way. And all of this takes place within a cultural tapestry made rich with the influences of indigenous, Spanish, and East Asian culture.

The entry into Peru is the coastal town of Lima.  The launch point for all of these climbs is the city of Huaraz, a scenic 8-hour ride from Lima. Huaraz is a mountain town perched at almost 10,000', that blends climbing culture with Peruvian earthiness and an ability to access a variety of interesting acclimatization hikes.  Attention to acclimatization is essential for a safe, enjoyable, and successful time. Throughout the acclimatization portion of our trip, we'll carefully monitor physiology via a pulse oximeter, respiration, and the “Lake Louise Scale” (a measurement of acclimatization).  Once acclimatized, a variety of climbing objectives await. 

Yanapaccha's basecamp provides easy access to a glacier, making it a great place to refresh existing skills and build new ones, before heading for its 17,915'/5460m summit.  Typically, a day or two is then enjoyed in Huaraz, relaxing, retooling, and breathing thick valley air.  Then it's off to the Ishinca Valley, which provides a range of ever escalating peaks to engage us as our acclimatization and skills build.  How we organize the overall flow is a function of your timeline and technical and altitude aspirations. A sample itinerary for a Yanapaccha and Ishinca Valley combination can look something like below:

Sample Itinerary

Day 1

Night flight to Lima allows for an early AM departure to Huaraz aboard a luxury bus with fully reclining sleeper seats. Travel by taxi from airport to the bus station. You will be provided with the information you need for a smooth transfer. (we highly recommend the bus as an enjoyable, comfortable, cultural option, but a private shuttle can be arranged.) This trip begins the acclimatization process, as you travel up over mountain passes above 15,000'. Enjoy the wildly scenic 8-hour drive that takes you from barren deserts to vistas of jagged mountains soaring above pastoral farming lands. You'll arrive in Huaraz (10K) in early evening, with enough time for a walk around town to begin the acclimatization process and to enjoy the vibrancy of this authentic mountain town.

Day 2

Sleep in a bit and then we'll drive up the mountain roads just outside of town to the Laguna Churup trailhead, arriving in the thin air above 12K. From there, we'll head up the path towards Laguna Churup, encountering some steep scrambling and fixed lines before reaching a sparkling sapphire lake at 14.5K feet beneath the towering face of Churup peak. Along the way we'll discuss acclimatization, altitude symptoms, treatments, and responses, and our overall risk management strategies for the upcoming climbing adventures. 

Day 3

No sleeping in today! An early AM departure will take us to the flanks of Huarapasca (17,775'/5415m). From there it's up to 5 pitches of steep snow and ice to the top—a good opportunity to begin getting our alpine legs under us. We'll return that afternoon to Huaraz and put our bags together for the Yanapaccha departure the following morning.

Day 4

We depart for Yanapaccha (17,915'/5460m) in the AM, stopping along the way in Yungay for breakfast, before beginning the spaghetti noodle road that winds up past the fantastical Laguna Llagunaco towards the trailhead. Our trail traverses gently around through the Andean alpine, with a final uphill push that lands us at camp, along the shores of a lovely little lake with spectacular views on Pisco and The Huandoy peaks. We'll settle into life in basecamp, cover skills as time permits, and then enjoy our first field meal—delicious three-course offerings providing fuel for the adventures ahead.

Day 5

Our Yanapaccha basecamp provides easy access to the flanks of the Yanapaccha glacier, making it an excellent training ground for the climbing to come. We'll cover crevasse rescue, ice climbing movement and technique, and multi-pitch climbing efficiency essentials. In the afternoon, we'll rope up and move up the glacier to acclimatize and get our team flow established, returning to the camp early enough to rest up a bit for our summit bid the next day.

Day 6

Weather and route conditions will determine our start time, but we'll be up early and getting after it! As with any mountain, Yanapaccha changes year-to-year, and we'll adapt our route accordingly, but we can anticipate several pitches of steep snow and/or low angle ice, gradually steepening until we reach the thin-edged summit, that plummets into lush Andean valleys on the other side. Staying focused on the descent, we'll arrive back at camp to enjoy the thick, rich air of 15K, some well-earned tent-time and a hearty meal.

Day 7

Today we pack up and get set to leave the lovely Llaganuco Valley. We'll hike out in the morning, head back to Huaraz, and enjoy showers, soft beds, and all the things that urban living offers, getting set for further adventures on the horizon.

Day 8

A morning departure takes us to the small village of Collon, where a mule team will meet us. With light packs, we'll head up the delightful trail toward Ishinca Valley, crossing numerous babbling brooks, crossing through shady groves of Quenal trees, up through valleys strewn with enormous boulders, before arriving in the pastoral expanse of our Ishinca basecamp.

Day 9

A steep stairmaster climb takes us out of basecamp up towards the peak towering right above camp, Urus Este (17,782/5420m). After a few hours, we arrive at the toe of the glacier, and several different options for ascent, from a glacial mountaineering route, to low-angle ice, to steeper mixed rock, ice, and snow. We'll be back in basecamp in the early afternoon, providing time to enjoy life in the valley, including a refugio that offers showers and a complete range of wine, beer, and other snacks and drinks to enjoy in a cozy lodge setting.

Day 10

After a casual morning in basecamp, we'll hike for a few hours up to the Ishinca High Camp, in preparation to climb the peak (17,880'/5450m). Camp is alongside a crystalline aquamarine high alpine lake, with the rock and glacial slopes of Ishinca perched above.

Day 11

The Ishinca climb offers the potential for a few steps of steep snow climbing and glacial travel. After hitting the top, we'll descend down the opposite ridge, making for a full circumnavigation of the peak—always a memorable mountain experience. Back down in basecamp, we'll pack up and head back to basecamp and all that it offers.

Day 12

A steep trail leaves from valley towards the steep and massive west face of Tocclaraju (19,512'/5950m). We'll camp at the toe of the glacier, our highest camp yet at 16,500'/5030m. An early bedtime will prep us well for our early morning start towards Tocllaraju's summit.  Alternative option: Depending on conditions and climber preferences, we could head to the basecamp for Ranralpalca (20,215'/6160m).

Day 13

Gentle glacial travel gets us into the mountain groove as we head towards Tocllaraju's west ridge. Depending on weather, conditions, and climber preferences, we'll either get on the ridge right at the bottom, or we'll go more directly right up the west face. Either way, you can anticipate a combination of steep-to-vertical snow and ice. Get ready to use all of the climbing skills you've been practicing--and be ready for a long day of applying those skills, both up and down. Camp-to-camp to Tocllaraju's summit can be an 18-hour day—and we'll still be packing up to head another 2-hours back down to Ishinca basecamp.  Alternative option: From the Ishinca-Ranrapalca Col Camp, we'll head to the start of the Ranralpalca climb. From there, it is pitch after pitch of gradually steepening snow and ice, with some mixed rock climbing thrown in, before getting right to the top. A technical descent demands full attention, before arriving back at Col Camp, saving enough energy to pack up and head back down to Ishinca basecamp.

Day 14

This is our flex-day, in the event we need a bit more acclimatization or a better weather window is presented. If we summit before the flex day, we can decide whether to enjoy non-climb time in the Ishinca Valley or we can head back to Huaraz.

Day 15

We retrace our footsteps back down the lovely Ishinca Valley towards Collon, this time enjoying the favorable incline and the gradually richer oxygen provided. After shuttling back to Huaraz, we'll shower up, relax a bit, and then gather together to celebrate our safe return and all of the climbing adventures and learning along the way.

Day 16

Peru offers so many more wonderful options to explore, whether in jungle groves or Incan ruins. But if you decide it's time to head back to Lima and back home, you'll probably want to plan for an AM departure from Huaraz that will bring you to the airport in time for a late PM departure from Lima.

Day 17

Your departure from Lima the prior night will bring you back stateside by the next afternoon. Enjoy the travel time to reflect on the experiences and the learning and meaning that you can glean from them. Also, though you'll have lots of homecoming things to tend to, be sure to save some time upon arrival for a quick jog around the neighborhood—you'll be amazed at how your sea-level lungs perform after all of our time up on high in Peru. You'll also be amazed by everything you've accomplished along the way.

Click here to return to the Peru Alpine Climbing Adventures Itinerary Options page.

Click here for a more detailed look at the Peruvian Alpine Climbing Acclimatization Hike Options.

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After reviewing the sample destinations and itineraries, connect with us to discuss your particular goals, timeline, and budget, and we'll work together to develop the optimal Peru plan.