Yanapaccha

Overview

Peru's Cordillera Blanca is an unparalled place for culture and climbing.  And a Yanapaccha climb is an excellent way to experience it if you're time-contrained--it's possible to acclimatize and go for the summit during ten days of travel.  Along the way, unbelievably blue Andean day times are contrasted with nighttime views straight into the heart of the Milky Way. And all of this takes place within a cultural tapestry made rich with the influences of indigenous, Spanish, and East Asian culture.

The entry into Peru is the coastal town of Lima.  The launch point for all of these climbs is the city of Huaraz, a scenic 8-hour ride from Lima. Huaraz is a mountain town perched at almost 10,000', that blends climbing culture with Peruvian earthiness and an ability to access a variety of interesting acclimatization hikes.  Attention to acclimatization is essential for a safe, enjoyable, and successful time. Throughout the acclimatization portion of our trip, we'll carefully monitor physiology via a pulse oximeter, respiration, and the “Lake Louise Scale” (a measurement of acclimatization).  Once acclimatized, a variety of climbing objectives await. 

A porter-assisted hike takes us to a kitted out basecamp, with meals that gets you primed for peak experiences.  Yanapaccha's basecamp provides easy access to a glacier, making it a great place to refresh existing skills and build new ones, whether starting with basic cramponing and roped travel skills or exploring crevasse rescue and vertical ice climbing.  And there are a variety of routes to the top: The West Face combines glacial travel with an exposed knife-edge ridge to the summit; the West Face Direct builds in two full pitches of steep snow or ice, and the Direct Direct can be up to nine relentless pitches steep terrain to tackle.  How we organize the overall flow is a function of your timeline and technical and altitude aspirations.  A sample itinerary for Yanapaccha can look something like below:

Sample Itinerary

Day 1

Night flight to Lima allows for an early AM departure to Huaraz aboard a luxury bus with fully reclining sleeper seats. Travel by taxi from airport to the bus station. You will be provided with the information you need for a smooth transfer. (we highly recommend the bus as an enjoyable, comfortable, cultural option, but a private shuttle can be arranged.) This trip begins the acclimatization process, as you travel up over mountain passes above 15,000'. Enjoy the wildly scenic 8-hour drive that takes you from barren deserts to vistas of jagged mountains soaring above pastoral farming lands. You'll arrive in Huaraz (10K) in early evening, with enough time for a walk around town to begin the acclimatization process and to enjoy the vibrancy of this authentic mountain town.

Day 2

Sleep in a bit and then we'll drive up the mountain roads just outside of town to the Laguna Churup trailhead, arriving in the thin air above 12K. From there, we'll head up the path towards Laguna Churup, encountering some steep scrambling and fixed lines before reaching a sparkling sapphire lake at 14.5K feet beneath the towering face of Churup peak. Along the way we'll discuss acclimatization, altitude symptoms, treatments, and responses, and our overall risk management strategies for the upcoming climbing adventures. 

Day 3

After breakfast in Huaraz, our shuttle will take us to the Laguna Ahuac trailhead, right near the ancient Wilcawain historical site, about 30 minutes outside of Huaraz. The trail goes up a lovely grassy path, then becomes rockier and steeper, before arriving at a stunning, serene, rather Scottish-looking mountain lake, with excellent views in all directions. We'll arrive around lunchtime, allowing for a bit of time to stay at altitude and maximize the acclimatization process. Then we'll head back to the trailhead, returning to Huaraz with time to shower up and enjoy dinner at one of the many great restaurants in the cute Parc Ginebre neighborhood.

Day 4

We depart for Yanapaccha (17,915'/5460m) in the AM, stopping along the way in Yungay for breakfast, before beginning the spaghetti noodle road that winds up past the fantastical Laguna Llagunaco towards the trailhead. Our trail traverses gently around through the Andean alpine, with a final uphill push that lands us at camp, along the shores of a lovely little lake with spectacular views on Pisco and The Huandoy peaks.

Day 5

Our Yanapaccha basecamp provides easy access to the flanks of the Yanapaccha glacier, making it an excellent training ground for the climbing to come. We'll cover crevasse rescue, ice climbing movement and technique, and multi-pitch climbing efficiency essentials. In the afternoon, we'll rope up and move up the glacier to acclimatize and get our climbing flow established, returning to the camp early enough to rest up a bit for our summit bid the next day.

Day 6

Weather and route conditions will determine our start time, but we'll be up early and getting after it!  As with any mountain, Yanapaccha changes year-to-year, and we'll adapt our route accordingly.  Depending on the route we choose, we can anticipate starting out with roped glacier travel, followed by anywhere from one to nine pitches of steep snow and/or low angle ice, gradually steepening until we reach the thin-edged summit, that plummets into lush Andean valleys on the other side. Staying focused on the descent, we'll arrive back at camp to enjoy the thick, rich air of 15K, some well-earned tent-time and a hearty meal.

Day 7

Weather/skills/flex day or departure for Huaraz. Or if weather looks solid for our Yana time, we can plan for a climb of Huarapasca in advance of our Yana departure. So Huarapasca would become Day 4, and subsequent days would be pushed back one and this Day 7 weather day would be eliminated. If we go that route, Day 4 looks like this: Basing out of Huaraz, an early AM departure will take us to the flanks of Huarapasca (17,775'/5415m). From there it's 2-4 pitches of steep snow and ice to the top—a good opportunity to begin getting our alpine legs under us).

Day 8

Today we pack up early and get set to leave Yanapaccha Basecamp—and return to all that city-life provides! We'll hike out in the morning, then travel back to Huaraz, arriving in the late afternoon. After enjoying a hot shower and massage from the hotel's masseuse, we'll gather for a final dinner at any one of the many lovely restaurants in Huaraz's Parc Ginebre.

Day 9

Peru offers so many more wonderful options to explore, whether in jungle groves or Incan ruins. But if you decide it's time to head back to Lima and back home, you'll probably want to plan for an AM departure from Huaraz that will bring you to the airport in time for a late PM departure from Lima.

Day 10

Your departure from Lima the prior night will bring you back stateside by the next afternoon. Enjoy the travel time to reflect on the experiences and the learning and meaning that you can glean from them. Also, though you'll have lots of homecoming things to tend to, be sure to save some time upon arrival for a quick jog around the neighborhood—you'll be amazed at how your sea-level lungs perform after all of our time up on high in Peru. You'll also be amazed by everything you've accomplished along the way.

Click here to return to the Peru Alpine Climbing Adventures Itinerary Options page.

Click here for a more detailed look at the Peruvian Alpine Climbing Acclimatization Hike Options.

Click here for a look at the Peruvian Alpine Climbing Clothing & Equipment List.

After reviewing the sample destinations and itineraries, connect with us to discuss your particular goals, timeline, and budget, and we'll work together to develop the optimal Peru plan.